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PICList Thread
'[EE] Magnetic Security Doors'
2004\09\27@183035 by Mike Hord

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I recently visited a friend out of state, and his apartment complex
had a pool area which was gated for limited access.  One simply
swipes an RFID card and the gate can then swing freely open.

There were no apparent wires leading to the gate, but it had a pad
on it which touched a corresponding pad on the fence next to it.

Can anyone shed some light on how this works?  I have a few
theories I'll outline below...as usual Google produces lots of
companies that want to sell me things, but no info on the system
in question.

1.  The pad on the gate is a magnet.  The pad on the fence is an
electromagnet with a ferrous core.  When the EM is off, the gate
is held to by the magnet.  When the EM is turned on, it is made
to repel the magnet by just enough to make opening the gate
easy.  I feel like this is the most likely method, since power
consumption is essentially zero under static circumstances
(except for card reading mechanism).

2.  The pad on the gate is a magnet.  The pad on the fence is an
EM with no core which is usually energized slightly to pull the
gate to, but can be switched off to allow the gate to open.  Less
likely, since a power failure means security failure.

3.  The pad on the gate is ferrous.  The pad on the fence is an
EM which is turned on, strongly, at all times.  To open, power to
the EM is interrupted.  I find this less likely, since it means a
power failure will inevitably cause the gate to become insecure.

There could be another option somewhere I'm not considering
(actually, there certainly are, but who's counting?).  I like the
first method, although it would take a lot of power to counteract
a magnet as strong as the one in question would have to be.

But, I suppose that counteractive force would not have to be any
stronger than the static force required to keep the gate shut.  So
that makes 3 less and less likely.

Input?  Has anyone any experience with this system of door lock?
As I said, my friend is several hundreds of miles away so I can't
just swing round and check it out myself.

Mike H.
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2004\09\27@184011 by Shawn Wilton

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Mike, the front door at my gf's place of business (biotech firm) has the
same sort of arrangement.  It's on the front door, and let me tell you,
that thing is so strong that I nearly tore the door off by trying to
push it open without pushing the release.  The release lever itself has
wires going to it, so I would expect that it's responsible for cutting
power.  Something else to consider is that if you lose power, all exits
are supposed to be openable from the inside.  If they're not, then this
could be catastrophic (think of a fire).  As such, I would guess the
system relies on power to maintain security.


Shawn Wilton
http://black9.net


Mike Hord wrote:
{Quote hidden}

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2004\09\27@191528 by Mark James

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The nestle factory in York (UK) has a similar system for all external and=20
internal doors/gates - all ID cards were magnetic swipe cards which could b=
e=20
used to pay for things inside the factory shops, as well as open doors you=
=20
were authorised to open, the doors all had a panel on the inside that are t=
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same as the fire alarm buttons (break the glass, which releases the button)=
=20
except they were green - if the fire alarms ever went off the doors were al=
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supposed to release automatically, if they didn't, simply break the glass a=
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the door would release.

if they were powered constantly I cant say, it would be an enormous waste o=
f=20
power, but having a power to open system wouldnt work with the break the=20
glass buttons - if the fire took out the power system breaking it wouldnt d=
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a thing and you would get toasty, thus they must be constantly powered to=20
hold the doors closed

On Monday 27 September 2004 23:40, Shawn Wilton wrote:
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2004\09\27@194127 by Shawn Wilton

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Don't you just love deductive logic?  :-)


Mark James wrote:
{Quote hidden}

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2004\09\27@203537 by Mike Hord
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 00:13:52 +0100, Mark James <spam_OUTmajTakeThisOuTspamjamers.net> wrote:
> The nestle factory in York (UK) has a similar system for all external and
> internal doors/gates - all ID cards were magnetic swipe cards which could be
> used to pay for things inside the factory shops, as well as open doors you
> were authorised to open, the doors all had a panel on the inside that are the
> same as the fire alarm buttons (break the glass, which releases the button)
> except they were green - if the fire alarms ever went off the doors were all
> supposed to release automatically, if they didn't, simply break the glass and
> the door would release.

So it must be power to remain shut, huh?

> if they were powered constantly I cant say, it would be an enormous waste of
> power, but having a power to open system wouldnt work with the break the
> glass buttons - if the fire took out the power system breaking it wouldnt do
> a thing and you would get toasty, thus they must be constantly powered to
> hold the doors closed

Hmmm...You know, it probably wouldn't waste TOO much power.  After all,
work can only be done if motion occurs, so the only losses would be current
in the wire, and that could be fairly low just to keep the door open.  Of
course, if some yahoo comes along and leans on the door for half an hour,
it could cause problems since the current would go up to keep the door shut.

Maybe.  I'm just thinking back to physics and using logic.

{Quote hidden}

OTOH, my wife works in a biosafety level 2 lab with a similar door system.
Or rather, she did until two weeks ago, when they shut up the old building
and moved out.  She pushed a button when she wanted to leave.  I can't
imagine a US Government biohazard building (they worked with Salmonella
and, once upon a time, anthrax [you may remember the Ames strain from
the big scare a couple of years ago?  That came from her lab.]) being
allowed to become unsecure simply due to a power failure.

So.  We're back at the beginning.  Obviously, power failure can't trap the
occupents in the building.  By the same token, a power failure can't let
anyone wander in off the street and do as they please (think about all
those "cut-the-power-and-rob-the-bank" movies).

Mike H.

BTW, a few years ago, someone tried to rob a bank in Fargo, ND, when
I lived there.  He knew the bank had a phone based alarm system, so he
snuck into the sewer and cut through the local phone lines (fiber optic)
with a Saws-all.  Something like 25,000 lines.  He spent quite a bit of
time in jail (he missed the critical line and the alarm went off anyway),
because of the tremendous cost associated with identifying and repairing
all of the severed and tangled lines.  IIRC, he even removed a few feet
entirely.
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2004\09\27@205001 by Shawn Wilton

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> OTOH, my wife works in a biosafety level 2 lab with a similar door system.
> Or rather, she did until two weeks ago, when they shut up the old building
> and moved out.  She pushed a button when she wanted to leave.  I can't
> imagine a US Government biohazard building (they worked with Salmonella
> and, once upon a time, anthrax [you may remember the Ames strain from
> the big scare a couple of years ago?  That came from her lab.]) being
> allowed to become unsecure simply due to a power failure.

Well, such systems are usually not used all the way through.  In other
words, the system ***HAS*** to let the occupants out in the event of a
power failure.  So these systems are not likely to be found in high
security areas, where it would be the only exit.  Or only entrance for
that matter.  I'm sure that mag lock at your wifes place of business was
not the only door she had to go through.  At my gf's place, it's just
the front door.  To actually get in to the individual suites, you need
the key codes, as they use standard latches.
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2004\09\27@230628 by Richard E. Teague

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http://www.securitron.com/documents/prodBrochure/MAGNALOCK.pdf

Above is a link to the brand of lock that I used at a secure facility, where
I worked several years ago. IIRC I installed it in about 1988. It's not new
technology; locks of this style have been around at least 20 years.

The model 62 that I used has a holding force of 1200 Lbs. and draws about
100mA at 24V, less than 3 watts. It used a mag card reader for entry, and a
passive infrared motion detector for no prior knowledge egress.
The panic bar on the door also had a micro switch to interrupt the magnet
supply in case the motion detector failed.

The mag lock used a 24V battery backup which would hold the lock in for a
minimum of 3 days in the event of a power failure. Unlocking on power fail
was NOT an option. In fact the supply was monitored by the alarm system, if
it dropped below 22V an alarm was triggered. The lock would maintain 1200 Lb
holding force down to 12V.


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2004\09\27@232307 by Dave VanHorn

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At 10:06 PM 9/27/2004, Richard E. Teague wrote:



{Quote hidden}

I've use these, they are MOST impressive.  You're better off going through the wall..
BIG inductance!

There is also the common door strike (BZZZZZTTtt you're in) and the solenoid lock that you see on motel doors (very quiet click)


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2004\09\27@233211 by Ivan Kocher

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Number 3 is the number ....  !!! :)


These systems work with an electromagnet at the fence and a ferrous
metal in the door.

The door has a two piece system, one like a box the is glued/screwed to
the door, and the other that will be atracted to the electromagnet.

The current is not an issue, because it is very low in the 10mA to 100mA
range, at 12V.  The idea is that when the electromagnet enegizes, it
moves the piece of ferrous metal in the door so they both touch, and the
friction there is very high, making imposible to move the door.

These electromagnets are not very strong, in the range of a few pounds
of force (plain magnetic pull), but once a bar of iron is in contact, it
will not move, due to the friction between the two of them.  One will
almost destroy the magnet trying to move the metal.

Notice that this is the way the system work in the door, you do not
separate the metal from the electromagnet, just move under it when you
open the door.

In case of a power failure, batteries keep the system going, control, RF
readers and magnets.   I think they use 12V at +/- 28Ah.  Nothing serious.

And yes there is a big number of companies offering these systems.

The RF cards are some sort of smart card with RF link, but there are
about 3 or 4 standards for these, "compatible".


There are some security concerns I personally have on these systems, but
they go to the RF card.  I know one that is just one of those "dumb"
smart cards, like a serial memory, that have no authentication.  So I
wonder... what might happen if a go about walking with a mini RF reader
in my pocket, storing the data that these cards have ??? the I can go
any place I want, and the system will register somebody else ....
I know camera security etc might be there too, but ... I _can_ open
doors I should not be able to .... !!!



Ivan Kocher
----------------


Mike Hord wrote:
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2004\09\28@090710 by Mike Hord

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Excellent information, everyone.  I don't know why, but for some reason I was
feeling like the current through the magnet would have to be high for a lot of
force.

Hmmm.  That still leaves me with a problem to solve, however.  Ah well.  I'll
get it.

Thanks guys!

Mike H.


On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 21:20:48 -0600, Ivan Kocher <.....ikocherKILLspamspam@spam@ice.co.cr> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

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2004\09\28@130133 by Howard Winter

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"Electric strikes" - where you have a normal latch mechanism in the door, but the part that it latches behind
on the doorframe is electrically operated - can be configured as "fail safe" or "fail secure".  This means
that the power either releases or holds the thing closed, respectively.

It's up to the designers which option to use, but fire-exits and all doors leading to them *must* be "fail
safe" so that nobody is trapped (doesn't need to be a fire - how would you feel about spending the weekend in
the office because a power cut started on Friday afternoon?  :-)

To use "fail secure" there must be another way to get out, which could be a "glass bolt" which you break to
release a door, or a handle on the inside that opens the latch even if the strike is secure, or a number of
other options.

"Fail safe" is by far the most common way to do it, so the solenoid in the strike is powered most of the time,
and gets slightly warm.  The current needed isn't great because it's only holding a small metal pin against a
spring.

As for electromagnetic locks where there are just two contact plates, as the OP described, they are usually
"fail safe" because it's so much easier to do (just an electromagnet and a metal plate) but the current needed
is much greater than with electric strikes because the magnetic field has to provide the force to prevent
opening.  I believe they can be made "fail secure" by having a permanent magnet as the securing element, with
an electromagnet counteracting its magnetic field to release, but this is subject to the "permanent" magnet
weakening over time.

There are also "electric bolts", where a deadlocking bolt is thrown (or withdrawn) by an electromagnet, but
they are very awkward to align properly and are prone to jamming in a panic if a lot of force is put against
the door when the bolt tries to retract.  Consequently these are the least common.

Cheers,

Howard Winter (who managed a building-fitout a few years ago and found out all these things as a result!)
St.Albans, England


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2004\09\28@133105 by Dave VanHorn

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>
>It's up to the designers which option to use, but fire-exits and all doors leading to them *must* be "fail safe" so that nobody is trapped (doesn't need to be a fire - how would you feel about spending the weekend in the office because a power cut started on Friday afternoon?  :-)


How about an office that can't open the parking garage gate after a power glitch, and it's 2AM so you can't take the bus home either, even though it would be a 90 minute trip..



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2004\09\28@135732 by Mike Hord

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> As for electromagnetic locks where there are just two contact plates,
> as the OP described, they are usually
> "fail safe" because it's so much easier to do (just an electromagnet
> and a metal plate) but the current needed
> is much greater than with electric strikes because the magnetic field
> has to provide the force to prevent
> opening.  I believe they can be made "fail secure" by having a
> permanent magnet as the securing element, with
> an electromagnet counteracting its magnetic field to release, but this
> is subject to the "permanent" magnet
> weakening over time.

This is an interesting point:  how long will a permanent magnet remain so?
I would tend to think that most permanent magnets remain pretty constant
over a fairly long term, some better than others.

What started all this is that I'm investigating a dumping mechanism for
time-delay feeding of livestock.  Basically, fill a hopper now, dump it in
X hours.  No need to dump a measured amount, because the human
pre-loads it, no need to be able to dump more than once, because the
animals get fed twice a day and must be checked in the morning, so
the food can be loaded then.

The mechanism must be sealed, so it can be hosed off regularly.  It
should be battery powered, so it can be fairly portable.  And it should
be cheap and easy to make (because I don't want to have to spend the
rest of my life making the 64 of them that may end up being needed).

I think I'm moving towards a plate on a rocker, with a magnet on one
side of the pivot axle and a magnet on the other, and using the
aforementioned electromagnet to repel the magnet.  Since it is a
first-class lever, making the food side shorter than the magnet side
will reduce demands on the magnet.  The magnet can be wound
around a bolt threaded through the wall of the package containing
the electronics, which will make it waterproof.  Finally, the magnet
doing the work means that nothing needs to be constantly energized,
which is good for battery life.

The big question now is, can I make an electromagnet capable of
pushing the magnet away and still run the thing on batteries?

Mike H.

> Cheers,
>
> Howard Winter (who managed a building-fitout a few years ago and found out all these things as a result!)
> St.Albans, England
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2004\09\28@142211 by Shawn Wilton

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Sure, question is, how big of batteries.  :-)  Probably going to want a
12V car battery.  Actually, maybe even a motorcycle battery would do.
Might expect to recharge the battery monthly or sooner depending on the
amount of work required to displace your magnet.

-Shawn
-http://black9.net


Mike Hord wrote:
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2004\09\28@142638 by Howard Winter

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Dave,

On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 12:31:51 -0500, Dave VanHorn wrote:

> How about an office that can't open the parking garage
gate after a power glitch, and it's 2AM so you can't
take the bus home either, even though it would be a 90
minute trip..

This happened to me (with my car in the underground
carpark, there was a power cut at the normal
going-home-time).  I and a number of other trapped
drivers searched around and found the manual winding
handle, took shifts winding the gate open and escaped!

Cheers,


Howard Winter
St.Albans, England


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2004\09\28@143409 by Robert Monsen

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There was a recent thread on sci.electronics.basics where a guy wanted
to build a similar system to water his garden when the sun went down. He
had a permanent magnet to latch the flush mechanism, and an
electromagnet circuit to push it off to drain. When it was drained, it
would somehow refill, which would push the mechanism back up to the
magnet and lock it for the next time.

He was using a solar system, charging a 12V lead-acid battery, I think..

It bears a snoop through the google news archives. He got lots of help
with it, and came up with a somewhat elegant analog circuit. Making the
control element be a PIC wouldn't be difficult at all.

Regards,
Bob Monsen

Mike Hord wrote:

{Quote hidden}

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2004\09\28@143759 by Howard Winter

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Mike,

On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 12:57:32 -0500, Mike Hord wrote:

>...<
> This is an interesting point:  how long will a permanent magnet remain so?
> I would tend to think that most permanent magnets remain pretty constant
> over a fairly long term, some better than others.

Well it depends on how you mistreat it (heating it up is about the best way to destroy a magnet).  By giving
it a burst of opposing magnetic field you are going some way to weakening it, but how much of a problem this
is depends on loads of things, starting with the material used for the magnet itself.  No way of knowing
beforehand how long any random magnet will still do it's job, I'm afraid!

>...<
>
> The mechanism must be sealed, so it can be hosed off regularly.  It
> should be battery powered, so it can be fairly portable.  And it should
> be cheap and easy to make (because I don't want to have to spend the
> rest of my life making the 64 of them that may end up being needed).

Can you get a mechanical latch, and use a solenoid to release it?  Something like a gate latch, which you can
just buy and add on the solenoid.  This would be pretty simple, reliable and tough.

>...<

> The big question now is, can I make an electromagnet capable of
> pushing the magnet away and still run the thing on batteries?

Yes, by charging up a capacitor and then dumping it into the electromagnet - with lots of protection for the
rest of the electronics from the awful spikes that will happen as a result!

Cheers,


Howard Winter
St.Albans, England


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2004\09\28@144505 by Dave VanHorn

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> By giving it a burst of opposing magnetic field you are going some way to weakening it, but how much of a problem this is depends on loads of things, starting with the material used for the magnet itself.  No way of knowing beforehand how long any random magnet will still do it's job, I'm afraid!


I don't think so.
One interesting trick for boost or buck switchers, is to use a magnet to bias the core, and roughly double the current the core can take without saturation. A few thousand hours at 100kHz is a lot of pulses.


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2004\09\28@160654 by Mark Jordan

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On 28 Sep 2004 at 13:45, Dave VanHorn wrote:

> One interesting trick for boost or buck switchers, is to use a magnet to
> bias the core, and roughly double the current the core can take without
> saturation. A few thousand hours at 100kHz is a lot of pulses.
>

       Do you have some links about this?  

       Thanks,
       Mark Jordan
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2004\09\28@162039 by Dave VanHorn

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At 03:06 PM 9/28/2004, Mark Jordan wrote:

>On 28 Sep 2004 at 13:45, Dave VanHorn wrote:
>
>> One interesting trick for boost or buck switchers, is to use a magnet to
>> bias the core, and roughly double the current the core can take without
>> saturation. A few thousand hours at 100kHz is a lot of pulses.
>>
>
>        Do you have some links about this?  

Not offhand.

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2004\09\28@164824 by Bob Blick

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>>On 28 Sep 2004 at 13:45, Dave VanHorn wrote:
>>
>>> One interesting trick for boost or buck switchers, is to use a magnet
>>> to
>>> bias the core, and roughly double the current the core can take without
>>> saturation. A few thousand hours at 100kHz is a lot of pulses.

Width coils in CRT-based monitors have used this trick, too.


-Bob


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2004\09\28@165121 by Mike Hord

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> > The mechanism must be sealed, so it can be hosed off regularly.  It
> > should be battery powered, so it can be fairly portable.  And it should
> > be cheap and easy to make (because I don't want to have to spend the
> > rest of my life making the 64 of them that may end up being needed).
>
> Can you get a mechanical latch, and use a solenoid to release it?  Something like a gate latch, which you can
> just buy and add on the solenoid.  This would be pretty simple, reliable and tough.

Making the solenoid watertight was my main problem.  Although I can imagine
easy ways of doing it.

> > The big question now is, can I make an electromagnet capable of
> > pushing the magnet away and still run the thing on batteries?
>
> Yes, by charging up a capacitor and then dumping it into the electromagnet - with lots of protection for the
> rest of the electronics from the awful spikes that will happen as a result!

Yah.  But then, that should be quite doable, and probably not too much worse
than the solenoid (as a fairly powerful solenoid might be required here).  The
solenoid has another strike against it, in that resetting it becomes a
bit tricky.
With the magnet, all a user has to do is push a lever until the magnet gets
close to the electromagnet core.  Although, again, one could probably design
a solenoid system with a similar goal in mind.

And from Shawn...

>Sure, question is, how big of batteries.  :-)  Probably going to want a
>12V car battery.  Actually, maybe even a motorcycle battery would do.
>Might expect to recharge the battery monthly or sooner depending on the
>amount of work required to displace your magnet.

I think perhaps I was unclear.  The condition will be such that there is
always a load on the magnet.  All I have to do is counter the magnetic
field enough to allow the trap door to open.  I don't need to push and hold,
just convince the magnet that it should no longer hold onto the core of the
electromagnet.  And I only need to do that for a few tenths of a second;
after that, the magnet will have moved away from the EM, and it can be
powered down.

Picture a seesaw with a child at one end, up in the air, and a magnet at
the other, stuck to a metal post in the ground.  Now make that metal
post an electromagnet, and turn it on.  Make the field generated by the
EM equal to or greater than the field from the magnet, and what happens?
The child's end drops to the ground.  Now turn the EM off.  What happens?
Nothing.  The magnet is too far from the post to be strong enough to pull
the child back up.  Only instead of a child, I'm dumping a trapdoor with
pig food behind it.

Regardless, you guys have given me much to think about.  I appreciate the
info!

Mike H.
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2004\09\28@170817 by Dave VanHorn

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At 03:48 PM 9/28/2004, Bob Blick wrote:


>>>On 28 Sep 2004 at 13:45, Dave VanHorn wrote:
>>>
>>>> One interesting trick for boost or buck switchers, is to use a magnet
>>>> to
>>>> bias the core, and roughly double the current the core can take without
>>>> saturation. A few thousand hours at 100kHz is a lot of pulses.
>
>Width coils in CRT-based monitors have used this trick, too.

Kind of implies that as long as you stay below the magnetizing energy, and the curie point, you'll be ok long term.

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2004\09\28@182435 by Shawn Wilton

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> I think perhaps I was unclear.  The condition will be such that there is
> always a load on the magnet.  All I have to do is counter the magnetic
> field enough to allow the trap door to open.  I don't need to push and hold,
> just convince the magnet that it should no longer hold onto the core of the
> electromagnet.  And I only need to do that for a few tenths of a second;
> after that, the magnet will have moved away from the EM, and it can be
> powered down.
>
> Picture a seesaw with a child at one end, up in the air, and a magnet at
> the other, stuck to a metal post in the ground.  Now make that metal
> post an electromagnet, and turn it on.  Make the field generated by the
> EM equal to or greater than the field from the magnet, and what happens?
> The child's end drops to the ground.  Now turn the EM off.  What happens?
> Nothing.  The magnet is too far from the post to be strong enough to pull
> the child back up.  Only instead of a child, I'm dumping a trapdoor with
> pig food behind it.

I knew what you were talking about Mike.  Just didn't know how much
power was going to be required to reverse the polarity on your magnet.
For all I know you have a 10 ft^2 door of 1 inch thick steel holding a
ton of food.  ;-)  In that case, your magnet would have to be pretty
tough and I would imagine it would require a bit of power to reverse it.
 But then, I've never built such a circuit before, so I really couldn't
say.

Best of luck either way.

Do try and keep us informed.  I'm sure some of the guys here would like
to see pictures of your "project", when complete.

-Shawn
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2004\09\29@042456 by Alan B. Pearce

face picon face
>As for electromagnetic locks where there are just two
>contact plates, as the OP described, they are usually
>"fail safe" because it's so much easier to do (just an
>electromagnet and a metal plate)

Round my place of work we have these to hold fire doors open if needed to do
so when moving equipment. Fire alarm goes off, interrupts the current and
the door swings shut on the automatic closer. The magnet and plate are a lot
smaller than the normal security door hold shut ones, so it is possible to
manually pull the door off the magnet once the moving operation is complete.

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2004\09\29@044745 by Alan B. Pearce

face picon face
>The big question now is, can I make an electromagnet capable of
>pushing the magnet away and still run the thing on batteries?

How are you going to charge the battery? This starts to look like a device
with a cable coming out, to go to a single central battery that powers all
units. They do not all need to let go simultaneously, to lower the battery
current demand, if you can use (say) a six conductor cable (I am thinking
something rugged like used for trailer connections on cars) which will carry
the power and enough communications between devices for a sequencing signal.
Now one battery, an SLA or similar in the office can be on float charge,
removing maintenance of that from the hassles the worker has to deal with.

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2004\09\29@093234 by Mike Hord

picon face
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 09:49:38 +0100, Alan B. Pearce <obf> wrote:
> >The big question now is, can I make an electromagnet capable of
> >pushing the magnet away and still run the thing on batteries?
>
> How are you going to charge the battery? This starts to look like a device
> with a cable coming out, to go to a single central battery that powers all
> units. They do not all need to let go simultaneously, to lower the battery
> current demand, if you can use (say) a six conductor cable (I am thinking
> something rugged like used for trailer connections on cars) which will carry
> the power and enough communications between devices for a sequencing signal.
> Now one battery, an SLA or similar in the office can be on float charge,
> removing maintenance of that from the hassles the worker has to deal with.

The original hope was to do this on three or four D-cell alkalines,
and I may yet
realize that hope.  It may require a step-up charger into a cap, to get many
small sips of juice from the battery to end up with a high enough burst into the
EM coil to release the magnet for the critical instant.

Or I may end up doing something completely different.  Some initial experiments
with a solenoid yesterday showed that even up to 12V, the solenoid did not
really want to repel even a small magnet, much less one capable of doing what
I need it to do.  All in all, it's been a fairly educational process.
I will certainly
try to remember to post a result and let you all know which method proved
most effective.

Mike H.
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2004\09\29@141620 by Robert Rolf

picon face
What you really want is a mechanical latch that holds your
bin in position with NO power. Then a pulse to the
electromagnet moves a pin that frees the latch, even when
under heavy load (a matter of design).

R

Mike Hord wrote:

{Quote hidden}

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2004\09\29@161152 by Mike Hord

picon face
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 12:15:48 -0600, Robert Rolf <obf> wrote:
> What you really want is a mechanical latch that holds your
> bin in position with NO power. Then a pulse to the
> electromagnet moves a pin that frees the latch, even when
> under heavy load (a matter of design).
>
> R

Right-o!  That "even when under heavy load" part is what gets me,
that and the "must be able to survive a thorough hosing-off".

Traditional solenoids (generally) have a fairly short throw, too short
for me to put a wheel or something on the end of the actuator to
offset that added mass.  Roll-your-own kind of sucks, because
who wants to home-wind 64 solenoids or EM coils.

I'm wondering if I can combine mechanical advantage (long lever
arm) with a solenoid to reduce the load.  We haven't even started
buying parts to experiment with, though.  It'll be fun.

Mike H.
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2004\09\29@163400 by Tim ODriscoll

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face
On Wed, 2004-09-29 at 21:09, Mike Hord wrote:
> Traditional solenoids (generally) have a fairly short throw, too short
> for me to put a wheel or something on the end of the actuator to
> offset that added mass.  Roll-your-own kind of sucks, because
> who wants to home-wind 64 solenoids or EM coils.
>
> I'm wondering if I can combine mechanical advantage (long lever
> arm) with a solenoid to reduce the load.  We haven't even started
> buying parts to experiment with, though.  It'll be fun.

Are you set on the idea of a magnetic door? I know it's completely
different to what you're thinking, but I've done an electronic lock with
an RC servo and a simple gate bolt. Works great. You don't need to keep
power to the servo (I got my PIC to switch power on/off via a darlington
driver), you can override it manually if need be, plus you get a
satisfying whir from the servo when it's moving.

Cheers,

Tim

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2004\09\29@172849 by Dave Schmidt

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Take a look at a  mousetrap?

Mike Hord wrote:

>I'm wondering if I can combine mechanical advantage (long lever
>arm) with a solenoid to reduce the load.  We haven't even started
>buying parts to experiment with, though.  It'll be fun.
>  
>

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2004\09\29@190836 by Robert Rolf

picon face


Tim ODriscoll wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2004-09-29 at 21:09, Mike Hord wrote:
> > Traditional solenoids (generally) have a fairly short throw, too short
> > for me to put a wheel or something on the end of the actuator to
> > offset that added mass.  Roll-your-own kind of sucks, because
> > who wants to home-wind 64 solenoids or EM coils.
> >
> > I'm wondering if I can combine mechanical advantage (long lever
> > arm) with a solenoid to reduce the load.  We haven't even started
> > buying parts to experiment with, though.  It'll be fun.
>
> Are you set on the idea of a magnetic door? I know it's completely
> different to what you're thinking, but I've done an electronic lock with
> an RC servo and a simple gate bolt. Works great. You don't need to keep
> power to the servo (I got my PIC to switch power on/off via a darlington
> driver), you can override it manually if need be, plus you get a
> satisfying whir from the servo when it's moving.

Every look at electric car window actuators, or
electric door locks? Lots of force. Certainly enough
to push pull a pin a few cm (and to crush the troats
of unattended children caught in the rising window).

And electric door latches are 'plug and play'.
Just have your bin rest on door latch. Apply
power and the load dumps. BUT, they're not cheap.

Robert
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2004\09\29@211907 by William Chops Westfield

face picon face

On Sep 29, 2004, at 4:10 PM, Robert Rolf wrote:

> Every look at electric car window actuators, or electric door locks?        :
> BUT, they're not cheap.
>
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
category=search&item=DLA-1

$5.50 - cheap enough to experiment with; if they work, I think they'd
still be cheaper (non-surplus) than most magnetic latches...

I bought one to play with as a linear actuator.  Imagine my surprise  
when
I saw most of the reviews at All were from people actually installing
them in car doors!  Go figure...

BillW

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2004\09\30@094126 by Mike Hord

picon face
>From Tim:

>Are you set on the idea of a magnetic door? I know it's completely
>different to what you're thinking, but I've done an electronic lock with
>an RC servo and a simple gate bolt. Works great. You don't need to keep
>power to the servo (I got my PIC to switch power on/off via a darlington
>driver), you can override it manually if need be, plus you get a
>satisfying whir from the servo when it's moving.

The magnetic element had a strong advantage in that I can completely
seal the mechanism.  Also, it has no moving parts.  However...(see below)

On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 18:19:03 -0700, William Chops Westfield <obf> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

Not a bad idea.  I think I see how I can use the lock actuators (or an
RC servo, for that matter) to work the magnetic locking mechanism.
That would let me put all the electronics in a tube, seal it completely
against the environment, and not have to worry about waterproofing
the joint around an actuator.

Thanks, guys, just the change of perspective I needed.  Also, Bill,
thanks for reminding me about Allelectronics...I used to watch their
site a lot, but somehow it dropped off my radar.

Mike H.
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2004\09\30@105655 by Robin.Bussell

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Hi Mike,
               coming in a bit late to this discussion... how about trying
something a little
exotic in the form of shape memory alloys?

I'm thinking along the lines of a few coils of nitinol or flexinol (which
contract strongly
when heated by a current through them but are easily stretched back again when
cold) pulling a latch out which lets the trapdoor fall.
At refill time the  operator  lifts the trap and pulls a handle which stretches
the
coils back out and pulls the latch into place.

Very few moving bits, potentially very simple mechanically, you can seal the
electronics easily,
and apparantly very long life if you make sure you're not overstretching things.

Have a link to more juicy details and places you can order sample kits to play
with:

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/Projects/Nitinol/Nitinol-1.html

Anyone else played with this stuff?

Cheers,
          Robin.







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2004\09\30@134825 by Mike Hord

picon face
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 15:12:14 +0100, robin.bussell <obf> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mike,
>                 coming in a bit late to this discussion... how about trying
> something a little
> exotic in the form of shape memory alloys?

Nitinol is fun stuff.  I have a friend who made a model airplane during
college which used nitinol for its control surfaces.

That's not a terrible idea, actually, but I do worry about the complexity
of potentially assembling a bunch of these things with nitinol wires to
be knotted or tied off, etc.  It could be less than fun.

> I'm thinking along the lines of a few coils of nitinol or flexinol (which
> contract strongly
> when heated by a current through them but are easily stretched back again when
> cold) pulling a latch out which lets the trapdoor fall.
> At refill time the  operator  lifts the trap and pulls a handle which stretches
> the
> coils back out and pulls the latch into place.

I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

Mike H.
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'[EE] Magnetic Security Doors'
2004\10\01@112838 by Peter L. Peres
picon face

Why can't you use a mechanical latch that is armed by the load put on it ?
Someone mentioned mousetraps. There are other ways to do it. F.ex. if the
container is balanced on a horizontal axle (above it), then the necessary
retaining force will be near zero regardless of its weight. Good
mechanical design principles (I read up once upon a time) demand that you
do not use levers with a ratio larger than 1:10 (1:20 for ball raced I
think). So your force will have to be about 1/10th of the weight of the
hopper unless you use an arming mechanism. F.ex. if the hopper must be
pushed against a spring to latch it then the spring would have to push
with 1/10th of the (reduced by lever, up to 10 times, see above) weight of
the hopper, and your latch would have to handle 2/10ths of the spring
force (lever again). That would give a mechanical gain of 500. Just how
heavy is that hopper ? Finding a magnet that holds 2kg on contact and a
solenoid that cancels it when energised is not so hard. That would allow a
total hopper weight of 1 ton. Big enough ? Then there is fail safe, fail
unsafe, whose standing under the hopper when someone is tinkering with the
wiring or lightning strikes nearby etc. I like the servo motor idea better
than a solenoid I think.

Peter

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2004\10\01@170047 by Mike Hord

picon face
On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 18:27:18 -0400 (EDT), Peter L. Peres <obf> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

Obviously you are much more mechanically adept than I.  ;-)  I tend to think of
things in a largely electrical sense, but this is also quite mechanical.

I will look also at spring balance methods, too.  I have decided to try a servo,
to rotate a second magnet away from the first.  That should work, because
pushing magnets apart laterally is much easier than pulling them.

Thanks!

Mike H.

PS- The hopper in question will be loaded with less than 5 kg of food, so
fail safe is not so important.  It will be battery operated, so power
interruption
isn't an issue either (except when the user lets the battery die, but that's
their problem.  All I can do is make sure they're aware when the batteries
run low, and make the batteries last as long as possible!)
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2004\10\04@115250 by Martin McCormick

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       When we first got our magnetic security doors here in the
early nineties, the computer that served as the decision point as to
whether or not one's card was valid decided to take a snooze one
morning.  It happened to be the day I used to run backups on a UNIX
work station we had and I had just started doing them.  Furthermore, I
needed to get them finished by normal business hours that morning so
that the backups had some chance of actually being useful if needed.

       I needed to get back in to the room to change the tape and
was now locked out.  The doors used a DC electromagnet at the top
which tightly held a metal plate mounted on the door such that one
would have had to break the door down to separate the two.

       Not only could I not do my work, but a couple of students had
shown up to do some part-time work and they needed in.

       I wasn't in the best of mood at that moment and tried one more
time to swipe my card through the reader.  In the process, I noticed
it was kind of loose in its bracket and low and behold, it could slide
right up and out.  The readers ran on 12 volts (no dangerous
voltages), so I suddenly got a brilliant idea that, if you really
wanted to be picky, could have gotten me fired.

       One of the cables going to the reader was a pair of wires
going through the wall to an Exit pushbutton on the other side.  That
button was a momentary-on type so all I had to do was take my pocket
knife and press it firmly against the two conductors as if I was going
to strip them.  That shorted both them together, made the system think
someone had pushed the button, and we were in.

       That was about ten years ago and I'm still here.

       Just for the record, our system has a battery backup for the
magnets and they run pretty cool to the touch.  I am amazed at the
amount of force they can exert on the steel plate that is the other
half of the lock.

Martin McCormick WB5AGZ  Stillwater, OK
OSU Information Technology Division Network Operations Group
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