Searching \ for '[EE ] Watertight Enclosure' in subject line. ()
Help us get a faster server
FAQ page: massmind.org/techref/index.htm?key=watertight+enclosure
Search entire site for: 'Watertight Enclosure'.

Exact match. Not showing close matches.
PICList Thread
'[EE ] Watertight Enclosure'
2003\12\19@115227 by BremnerC

2003\12\19@161057 by Jinx

2003\12\26@104647 by llile

DO NOT use vaseline on plastic insulation. Petroleum is a great way to
degrade plastics

DO NOT use silicone rubber anywhere around copper - it produces  acetic
acid fumes which corrodes copper even if they are not touching.  Lots of
people make this mistake.

If you have to seal up electronics, use parafffin wax.  It is inert,
easily poured into a potting block, hates water, and easily removed by
moderate heat.

If you want them to be impervious and un-fixable, pot them in epoxy.  But
don't do that with your prototype, even if it is working, because it won't
be working next week.



-- Lawrence Lile





Jinx <spam_OUTjoecolquittTakeThisOuTCLEAR.NET.NZ>
Sent by: pic microcontroller discussion list <.....PICLISTKILLspam@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
12/19/2003 03:09 PM
Please respond to pic microcontroller discussion list


       To:     PICLISTKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
       cc:
       Subject:        Re: [EE ] Watertight Enclosure


> One other poster in this thread mentioned using Vaseline in place
> of (or as well as) silicone grease. My only concern with this is I've
> seen Vaseline degrade some insulation on wires

Good point. Vaseline is a hydrocarbon product which some wires,
rubbers and components might'nt like, whereas silicone grease is
chemically inert. I did mention in my OP that Vaseline could be used
"in a pinch"

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics



--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email .....listservKILLspam.....mitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@112047 by Jack Smith

>DO NOT use silicone rubber anywhere around copper - it produces  acetic
>acid fumes which corrodes copper even if they are not touching.  Lots of
>people make this mistake.

Isn't this true only of the stuff you buy at the local hardware store? It is
possible to purchase non-corrosive varieties of RTV intended for electronic
purposes.

Dow-Corning 748, for example, is a non-corrosive RTV type sealant. GE makes
similar products.

Sometimes these are sold as "aviation" or "aerospace" sealants, in addition
to an "electronic sealant" name.

Jack

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email EraseMElistservspam_OUTTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@123809 by llile

Correct, there are brands of silicone rubber that are made for
electronics, and your local hardware store won't have any of them.

-- Lawrence Lile





Jack Smith <Jack.Smithspam_OUTCOX.NET>
Sent by: pic microcontroller discussion list <@spam@PICLISTKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
12/26/2003 10:19 AM
Please respond to pic microcontroller discussion list


       To:     KILLspamPICLISTKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
       cc:
       Subject:        Re: [EE ] Watertight Enclosure


>DO NOT use silicone rubber anywhere around copper - it produces  acetic
>acid fumes which corrodes copper even if they are not touching.  Lots of
>people make this mistake.

Isn't this true only of the stuff you buy at the local hardware store? It
is
possible to purchase non-corrosive varieties of RTV intended for
electronic
purposes.

Dow-Corning 748, for example, is a non-corrosive RTV type sealant. GE
makes
similar products.

Sometimes these are sold as "aviation" or "aerospace" sealants, in
addition
to an "electronic sealant" name.

Jack

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email RemoveMElistservTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body



--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email spamBeGonelistservspamBeGonemitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@153926 by Jinx

> > DO NOT use silicone rubber anywhere around copper - it
> > produces  acetic acid fumes which corrodes copper

> Isn't this true only of the stuff you buy at the local hardware store?
> It is possible to purchase non-corrosive varieties of RTV intended
> for electronic purposes

I use neutral cure silicone, originally bought for fixing the fish
tank. Straight out of the tube you can smell the acetic acid. I
also have two-pot silicone rubber, but I don't think this would be
a good sealant because it doesn't stick to anything

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email TakeThisOuTlistservEraseMEspam_OUTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@162942 by Russell McMahon

> >DO NOT use silicone rubber anywhere around copper - it produces  acetic
> >acid fumes which corrodes copper even if they are not touching.  Lots of
> >people make this mistake.

> Isn't this true only of the stuff you buy at the local hardware store? It
> is possible to purchase non-corrosive varieties of RTV intended for
> electronic purposes. Dow-Corning 748, for example, is a non-corrosive
> RTV type sealant. GE makes similar products.
> Sometimes these are sold as "aviation" or "aerospace" sealants, in
> addition to an "electronic sealant" name.

> Correct, there are brands of silicone rubber that are made for
> electronics, and your local hardware store won't have any of them.

Faraway here in NZ you can buy "neutral cure" silicon rubbers intended for
eg marine use. These are sold in the local (very large) hardware store and
in the local auto supply stores. (I use neutral cure "Silastic Marine" for
all my silicon rubber applications - that brand may not feature where you
live).

The magic term here is "neutral cure". If you take a nice big breath of the
air near uncured sealant and can't smell any acetic acid you probably have
the right stuff. (if you don't know what acetic acid smells like take a nice
big breath of the air near the wrong stuff :-). Its quite tangy and
distinctive. Vinegar is dilute acetic acid so if you know what vinegar
smells like ... .



       Russell McMahon

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email RemoveMElistservTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@182348 by William Chops Westfield

On Friday, Dec 26, 2003, at 12:39 US/Pacific, Jinx wrote:

> I use neutral cure silicone, originally bought for fixing the fish
> tank. Straight out of the tube you can smell the acetic acid.

then i don't think it is "neutral cure" - the GE silicone website
says specifically that neutral cure silicones don't release acetic
acid...

I have gotten the impression that 'aquarium' silicone is lacking in
other things that might be harmful to fish.  One aquarium website
claims bathroom silicone has assorted anti-mold "heavy metals"
(arsenic, specifically.)  Acetic acid would not normally be a
problem in an aquarium, I would think - you're talking glass to
stainless seals, and the acetic acid would wash away...

(Then of corse there is the problem of "we took the same old
stuff and printed "aquarium" on the label so we could charge
more...")

BillW

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email listservEraseME.....mitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@201753 by Jinx

> > I use neutral cure silicone, originally bought for fixing the fish
> > tank. Straight out of the tube you can smell the acetic acid.
>
> then i don't think it is "neutral cure" - the GE silicone website
> says specifically that neutral cure silicones don't release acetic
> acid...

Absolutely right. It nagged me after I wrote that so I double-
checked. The tube that whiffs of acetic acid is plain glass
sealer and is the one I use most often and most recently, which
is probably why it was in the front of my mind. The other tube
is the neutral cure

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email EraseMElistservmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

William Chops Westfield wrote:

> On Friday, Dec 26, 2003, at 12:39 US/Pacific, Jinx wrote:
<snip>
>
> (Then of corse there is the problem of "we took the same old
> stuff and printed "aquarium" on the label so we could charge
> more...")
>
> BillW
>

As I keep fish, I'm hoping that its because they tested
it and made sure the fish didn't die. Opps, then there's
that animal testing thing...........

Jim

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email RemoveMElistservEraseMEEraseMEmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\26@213026 by Jinx

> > (Then of corse there is the problem of "we took the same old
> > stuff and printed "aquarium" on the label so we could charge
> > more...")
>
> As I keep fish, I'm hoping that its because they tested
> it and made sure the fish didn't die. Opps, then there's

When I made a cement-lined fish pond you actually needed
acetic acid (a bottle of vinegar) to neutralise the lime before
it could be used

So, anyway, getting back to wires and silicone..........

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email RemoveMElistservspam_OUTKILLspammitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

2003\12\27@061555 by Peter L. Peres

>The magic term here is "neutral cure". If you take a nice big breath of
>the air near uncured sealant and can't smell any acetic acid you probably
>have the right stuff. (if you don't know what acetic acid smells like
>take a nice big breath of the air near the wrong stuff :-). Its quite
>tangy and distinctive. Vinegar is dilute acetic acid so if you know what
>vinegar smells like ... .

I have been looking for this stuff everywhere. What triggers the cure on
the 'neoutral cure' stuff ? Light ? I would like to mold it into a box.
Would it cure like that ? Within my lifetime ?

Peter

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
RemoveMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestTakeThisOuTspammitvma.mit.edu

2003\12\27@075334 by gtyler

2003\12\27@160218 by Russell McMahon

> >The magic term here is "neutral cure".

> I have been looking for this stuff everywhere. What triggers the cure on
> the 'neoutral cure' stuff ? Light ? I would like to mold it into a box.
> Would it cure like that ? Within my lifetime ?

"Neutral cure" releases alcohol and is more or less odour free.
Here's a good overview page

       http://www.deltasealants.com/difference.html

My experience is that skinning occurs in around an hour and reasonable cure
within a day or so. Sets to "normal" high quality Silicon Rubber.


       RM
____________________

The above site says:

Acetoxy cure.

This is the most commonly used (maybe out of ignorance, or because is
cheaper?), it is more rigid and the full cure is quick. On the downside it
generally has poor adhesion and leaves much to be desired in how well it
'sticks' to PVC-U, most other plastics, and glass, aluminium and
Polycarbonate. Shrinkage can be acceptable if it does not contain added
solvent. I have heard that the chemical released with Acetoxy cure attacks
and degrades polycarbonate in some way.

Neutral cure.

Much better adhesive properties for a greater number of materials including
PVC-U, most other plastics, glass, aluminium, lead, stone and masonry, and
Polycarbonate, it cures with atmospheric moisture and skins over in about 30
minutes, and leaves a shinier finish. On the downside it is more expensive,
and is slower to cure at one to five days depending on thickness,
temperature and humidity conditions.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspamspamBeGonemitvma.mit.edu

2003\12\28@060150 by Jonathan Johnson

2003\12\28@161852 by Peter L. Peres

2003\12\28@161854 by Peter L. Peres

More... (looser matching)
- Last day of these posts
- In 2003 , 2004 only
- Today
- New search...